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Glue-on Boots Series Part 3: Scoot Skins Using Sikaflex 227

This is part of a 3-part series on glue on hoof boots and covers how to glue on boots with Sikaflex 227. If you're not sure which type of glue you'd like to use, please click over to the following article first: Which glue should I use for gluing on my Scoot Skins?

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More photos and video to be added to this article later)


Scoot Skins are the glue on version of Scoot Boots. Gluing on Scoot Skins or other hoof boots with Sikaflex 227 is ideal for shorter term applications such as an endurance ride weekend, or a week-long riding trip. Sikaflex is a caulk-like product which remains flexible so it is also used on the sole for extra adhesion as well as extra protection for the horse. Because it is applied to the sole it is not recommended for use for more than 2 or 3 weeks. If you'd like to glue your boots on for a full trim cycle please see Part 2 in our Series, which covers gluing with acrylics or epoxies. 

Personally, since I only get to a few endurance rides a year, which can be a couple months apart, I'd prefer not to have glue on boots on all that time. So I like using Sikaflex, putting boots on a couple days ahead of the endurance ride, and removing them a couple days after. 

Sikaflex cures very slowly, which makes it easier to work with, but the challenge is keeping the boot on until the glue is dry enough to keep it on itself. When doing this with Easyboot Gloves, they have a gaiter which is kept on while gluing and removed when set. Scoot gaiters do not attach to the boot nor do they work with Scoot Skins so that's not an option. So what we did was use half a roll of vet wrap to secure the boot for several hours after being glued.

Here's the short version of the process:
  1. Choose the right size boot with good contact. Usually 1 or 2 sizes smaller than the size the horse usually wears. There is no heel strap so a smaller boot is no problem. Front gap can be overly wide. My horse wears slim 4 and we used regular 3.
  2. Optionally cut the boot down a bit as shown here. This can be done to remove areas with poor contact to the hoof wall, and to remove sharp corners that might catch on things:
  3. Rough up the inside of the boot. This can be done with a drill with a wire brush attachment, or a drill with a cylindrical sanding attachment. You may want to follow up with a Dremel for any spaces you could not reach. 
  4. Optionally drill a few holes in the boot wall for the glue to lock into.
  5. Scrub the inside of the boot with Dawn or Simple Green and dry thoroughly.
  6. Trim and pick out the hoof, keep the feet dry, brush with a wire brush
  7. Sand the hoof wall with a buffy (air filled cylindrical sander drill attachment), a grinder or fine side of a hoof rasp. Remove any shiny/waxy looking material.
  8. Remove dust with a lint free cloth. Alcohol can also be used to dry the hoof. 
  9. Put on mask and gloves and work in a well ventilated area ideally outside. READ THE LABEL. Sikaflex, like other adhesives, is toxic while curing. 
  10. Dispense the Sikaflex onto the inside wall and sole of boot. Spread with popsicle stick to about 1/8" thick.
  11. Put some sikaflex into collateral grooves, and any part of the sole that is concave.
  12. Place boot on hoof. Twist the boot from side to side a bit to evenly distribute the glue. Press sides of boot in and make sure there is good solid contact everywhere.
  13. Wrap tightly with vet wrap around and under the hoof
  14. Repeat for other boots.
  15. Keep horse standing still for about 15 minutes
  16. Keep horse confined to a stall or pen for several hours, especially if you have hilly pasture (when we did not do this we lost a boot within minutes even with the vet wrap)
  17. After several hours horse can be turned out but leave the vet wrap on over night.
We applied boots did two 5-mile rides at home, and then my horse did a 50-miler at Fort Howes with a catch rider. The boots were flawless!